Q. What type of primer and finish paint should I use to refinish a standing toolbox? I sanded the whole toolbox and wiped it with lacquer thinner. I then rinsed and washed with soap and water, and wiped dry. —B.B.
A. Well, you are halfway there. For simple refinishing, you can look for a self-primer and paint product with the gloss you desire at your local hardware store. If you want to go a little more elaborate, you may want to check out your local automotive paint supplier and get an iron oxide primer and a separate paint in the color and sheen you want. Usually this paint will be an acrylic product, and if you are looking for a very durable finish you may even want to purchase a paint that incorporates a catalyst hardener.
First, coat the prepared surface with the iron oxide primer in a well-ventilated booth or spray area. After it has dried, sand the surface smooth with a 220- to 320-grit stearated sandpaper. Be sure to remove all the sanding dust and make sure it is clean, then apply a uniform coat of the paint, being careful not to apply to much in one pass to avoid sags. The trick is getting uniform wet coats 6-8” from the surface, with half the spray pattern overlapping as you spray. If you do encounter sagging, let the paint dry, then sand with 400-600-grit wet/dry paper and repaint. If you end up using a two-part paint and sagging occurs, you’ll need to sand the whole surface of the affected area before recoating, as the paint may not adhere on the second coat.
Some that bears precious metals is, and there are a host of regulations to consider when recycling.
Choosing the right conveyor system, coating technology, and ancillary equipment.
E-coat can produce uniform finishes with excellent coverage and outstanding corrosion resistance.